A days solo exploration of Arnala beach and Arnala Fort in Virar.

                                                                                                                                                               

Distances from starting terminus's :-  "VIRAR" is 60 Kms from Churchgate 

                                                                                                                                                                          I have been a "SOBO(South Bombay) SNOB" since childhood having spent my initial growing up schooling years in Byculla of South Mumbai  and now residing in Prabhadevi locality of  Central Mumbai.Even the worst "Sobo Critic" has to admit that the best night-clubs, hotels, entertainment ,theater,colleges, educational institutions ,hospitals and shopping is mostly concentrated within "SOBO".Until "Economic Liberalization 1992 and Mill land redevelopment" Bandra was considered a suburb by "Sobo Snobs" and Borivali a distant picnic  location  being famous for its National wild-life  park. In 2016 its Borivali that is a distant suburb  and "SOBO snob" includes Bandra residents ! Wealth does not describe the "Sobo Snob" but simple living location in Mumbai city  be it a tiny room in Nagpada or a palatial multi-crore apartment on Altamont road,Malabar hill or Cuffe Parade

Dadar Station.Always crowded with train commuters.

                                                                                                                           .Location and only location and not wealth describes the "SOBO Snob". In Byculla our building was just opposite the Byculla railway station (East) and literally grew up seeing and hearing the local Bombay(Mumbai) trains and commuters but never ever travelling much by trains within Mumbai. Bus and later  over the decades a  cycle and a motorcycle was my common mode of commuter transport within Mumbai city.Having visited 52 Country's to date and almost entire India it  was embarrassing to having not visited Virar nor travelled the longest distance in a local Mumbai train.Have travelled up and down the tube trains of Europe  and Asia but never the longest train distance to "VIRAR" in my own home city  ! "Virar" shot to prominence as the former residence of Hindi movie star Govinda(Govind.Arun.Ahuja)  famous for the popular hilarious phrase,quote, "This happens only in India".Actor Govinda   later also became a actor politician and a  Member of Parliament from that constituency. The first Bombay suburban train and the  first  railway system in India  was between Victoria Terminus(Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) and Thane railway terminus on Saturday 16th April 1853 with "BYCULLA STATION" being one of the train stops on the inaugural  34 Km journey to Thane. Virar is the last terminus for Western railway trains of Mumbai and decided to travel by train  to Virar and in the process explore the Arnala beach and Arnala Fort situated about 10 Kms from Virar station.I had previously visited the Bassein Fort in November 2010 with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History)" group  and the same documented in the first part of this blog. The Arnala Fort is historically  linked to  the Bassein Fort and situated  only 19 Kms from the Bassein Fort along the sea coast at the mouth of the Vaitrana river.. Decided to travel by train from Dadar to Virar a rail distance of approximately 49 kms and later by road  to Arnala beach .

"Fishing Industry"  on Arnala beach in Arnala Village of  Virar.

Friday(13-5-2016) Departure  Prabhadevi and  exploring Virar and Arnala Fort.  :- It was "FRIDAY the 13th", a day synonymous with western superstitious belief  as a unlucky day for  various reasons of which many are myths including some films of the modern era.

On the semi-fast train train to Virar

                          The most important  historical fact  concerns the "Knights Templar" organisation's   total annihilation by  King Phillip IV of France on  orders of Pope Clement V on Friday 13th October 1307.Hence this day is considered unlucky in the Western Christian World. As for me it was the day to start my long train journey to Virar for the first time in my  48 years of living in Bombay(Mumbai) city.Woke up as usual and after breakfast left my residence in Prabhadevi at 0615 hrs. Boarded the bus to Dadar and on alighting near Plaza Theatre walked the short distance to the train ticket booth of the Western Railway. It was a long queue  and  the first time in my life purchased a Rs 30 "Virar return ticket(Second Class)" and at 0645 hrs boarded  a almost empty "Churchgate-Virar Semi-fast " train   and got comfortable sitting accommodation in the Second class compartment.

On the Private "VVMT bus"  from Virar to Arnala beach.

                                                                         This was a "SEMI- Chrchgate/Virar  FAST" local  stopping at Dadar,  Bandra,Andheri , Borivali  and later at all stations upto the final terminus Virar. I always carry a novel or some reading material on all tours and for this short train journey began reading the "Hornbill Magazine" on natural history published by the "Bombay Natural History Society" of which i am a life member having done a few wild-life and historical fort tours with the group.The train gradually got filled with commuters and at Andheri station  two young men entered the compartment  and sat next to me. Developed a conversation with Mr Ronak.Vasant.Barot and Tanmay.Rajendra.Vartak,young employees in their early twenties   employed in a Pharmaceutical company on the odd night shift and returning back home in the morning hours. Brought back memories of my "Marine Engineering Apprenticeship" years(1978-1982) and the odd factory  night shifts of that era. Bombay has transformed in "Light Years" in population as well as city infrastructure since the 1980's.

Arnala Village fish market.

                                                                       Closed the generation gap by getting to understand 21st century Mumbai life and travel by local trains from these two young gentleman while i gave them a brief summary of my life and opinions.Got to understand the meaning of "Smart-Phone " connectivity when young Mr Ronak. Barot immediately traced me on his mobile phone and added a "F.B(Facebook)" friend request on the spot ! I would have to reach home in the evening and accept the "Friends request" akin to my youth generation's  "Snail mail" era  which straight away explains the 21st generation and the Internet/Telecommunication revolution in the world and India.Thanks to the "SMARTPHONE"  that commuters in jam packed trains or buses could keep in touch with the World as well as while away the long commuting hours by watching a movie or any programme of interest while travelling.Finally reached Virar Station at 0750 hrs, the entire journey from Dadar to Virar lasting one hour five minutes After alighting at Virar Station inquired about the location of the public bus service terminus  to Arnala beach which was a short walk from the West side of the station terminus.On arrival near the bus stop which was a short ten minutes walk  from the station was lucky to get a local yellow  green coloured  mini bus (VVMT bus) to Arnala beach operated by the "Vasai Virar Municipal transport",. The bus ticket was Rs 13 and it was a pleasant 9 Kms road journey to Arnala beach on this comfortable small bus akin to a private coach.

Arnala Fisherman's Co-operative Society.

                                                                                                                                        Noticed the skyscraper buildings in the vicinity of Virar city, once a  distant village of Mumbai.Later our bus  crossed Virar city municipal  limits and was surprised at the abrupt change in topography. From  a concrete jungle we were transported into a serene village setting comprising of small bungalow/cottage houses in the midst of banana and coconut plantations. At 0815 hrs reached Arnala village and passed along the local fish market.The next stop from the fish market  after passing along  St Peters church was the end terminus of the bus .Alighted at the bus terminus and asked directions for Arnala fort  boat ferry terminus.I had to walk back in reverse direction from the bus depot which was situated  near  Arnala beach.Arnala Fishing  village beach is in the opposite direction of Arnala Beach that is the popular recreation tourist beach. Walked past St Peters Church, a large  church that was once a small chapel hut in  1919.When the Portuguese arrived In Bassein they began a immediate conversion into Catholicism of the local population.These Converted Mahrashtrian Catholics are referred to as "East Indians" as their mother tongue is Marathi unlike Goan and Mangalorean Catholics whose mother-tongue is Konkani. This Church was built to its present  architectural design  by Fr Ismail Da Costa and  blessed by Archbishop Joaquim.Lima on  27th December 1931.

"Bombay Ducks"  being dried  in Arnala fishing village.

                          The Church was closed  and hence just entered the church compound which had a small cemetery .Arnala Village  has a large East Indian Catholic population and their communal village dwellings are called "Gaothans". A few meters further from the Church was Arnala village fish market which was crowded with customers and fish-sellers. Entered the market as usual and was amazed at the sight of  large quantities of the expensive Pomfret fish  being displayed by various fisher-women.Kept in touch with fish prices as i regularly do the fish marketing  in Worli fish market in Central Mumbai.It was a long walk in in the hot sun from the fish market  through  a narrow lane among village houses towards Arnala fishing beach.On the way came across a large building that belonged to the "Arnala Fishermen's Co-operative Society" which had a crowd of fisher-folk on its premises.At 0840 hrs reached the entrance to the beach and was mesmerized by the sight that greeted me,

Transporting ice blocks  to deep sea fishing vessels.

                 The entire beach area was lined with dried Bombay duck fish stacked on bamboo poles  attached  to wooden bamboo  stakes   akin to clothes being dried in the open air.I have visited numerous fishing villages in India and foreign country's but never before did i ever see a  open air dry fish industry. It was low tide and the entire beach area was active with fisher-folk, boats and transport of fish from the beach to various  inland destinations  on land.Observed large quantities of ice blocks being transported from the beach to small boats.On inquiry was told that since Arnala fishing port had no permanent jetty and   this ice was being transported by the small boats that beached themselves  on the shore  to the larger fishing vessels anchored in deeper waters . Removed my shoes and walked bare feet in my short pants  towards the wet tidal beach awaiting the small ferry boat  for being transported to Arnala Fort island.

locals boarding the ferry boat to Arnala Fort Island.

                                                                                       The small ferry boat arrived  packed with local passengers beaching itself on the sand bar. It was adventurous to a city bloke to witness rudimentary shipping technology being applied  in ferry transport between Arnala fishing village and Arnala Fort. After all the passengers had alighted i waded into the knee deep water and boarded the tiny boat that resembled a Ocean ship's life-boat in size and capacity.After the boat got filled with passengers the boat-man cranked the diesel engine manually and started the boat.The ticket charges was Rs 15 for a return ticket and it was a short 10 minutes journey to the other side  to Arnala Fort island.

Arnala Fort Island :- Dry fish Industry on the beach.

                                                                                                                                  At 0910 hrs our boat beached itself on Arnala Fort island and after wading in the knee deep water  reached the wet shore that was also busy with fishing activity akin to mainland Arnala fishing village.Walked towards the Fort village and inquired about directions to the Fort.It was extremely hot and humid and i began my unbelievable consumption of liquids during the entire day trek with the inauguration being my own  back-pack  water bottle.The entire Arnal Fort sea beach  near the  Ferry boat stop was lined with dried Bombay ducks upto the high tide water mark  akin to Arnala fishing village on the mainland.On reaching the village settlement put on my shoes and began my walkathon trek.  It was a meandering walk  towards the Northern end of the small island through a small narrow lane among  village houses with many of the houses  having fishing nets and dried Bombay ducks fish in their backyard.

Main Northern gate Entrance to "ARNALA FORT". Tiger/Elephant  Carvings.

At 0930 hrs reached Arnala Fort  main gate situated  at the extreme North end of the Island.From the exterior the Fort presented a majestic sight with its ramparts intact  along with a massive bastion.. I was surprised at being the only tourist on the island at this time of the day, a definite curiosity for the local villagers.Near  the entrance gate of the fort  on the right hand corner was a plaque in Marathi language honouring  a few local politicians and   mentioning the inauguration of the fort maintenance  by the  giant Corporate "O.N.G.C(Oil  & Natural Gas Corporation )" on 18th March 2001.

View  of North End entrance from Inside the Fort:- Ruins.

                   Entered the Fort and was surprised to just see ruins and a empty desolate ground akin to a stadium backyard.Here is a brief history of this isolated Fort island now a monumental ruin.The Arnala fort is historically linked to the Bassein Fort in Vasai  and was initially constructed in  1516 by a local Gujarat Sultan Mahmud.Begda. In 1530's the Portuguese had arrived and established themselves in Bassein also later taking control of Arnala island.The Arnala island was gifted to a Portuguese Nobleman  by the Portuguese Captain of Bassein and the old Fort was demolished with intention of building a new 700 x 700 Foot(210m x 210 m).

Ramparts of  Arnala Fort used for drying fish by locals.

                   The Fort was never built by the Nobleman  but named llhas Das Vocas by the Portuguese who ruled over the island  for two centuries controlling  shipping and Navigation along the Northern Konkan coast.In 1737 Maratha Peshwa Baji Rao I sent his brother Chimaji Appa to conquer Bassein Fort from the Portuguese.After victory in the "Battle of Vasai" General  Shankarji Pant persuaded Chimnaji Appa to capture Fort Arnala for its strategic importance. The Maratha forces and the  Navy under Manaji Angre  attacked Arnala Fort  but were defeated by the superior Portuguese Navy. A second assault by the Maratha's on  March 28th 1737 resulted in defeat of the Portuguese  and their abandonment of the fort.

Perrineal Octagonal well next to temple.

                                                                A memory plaque commemorating this historic event is in-scripted on the main Northern wall entrance gate that also has the emblem of a tiger and a elephant. The Fort was re-designed and built to the present form by the Maratha's  having three bastions  named  Bhairav, Bhavani  and Bava. The Maratha's controlled the Fort until 1817 when they were forced to hand over the Fort to the British.The Arnala and Bassein Forts were later returned to the Maratha's but was again re-taken  by the British in the treaty of  Pune. In 2016 its just the history books and a few inscriptions along with the  Ramparts and Bastions that recalls the importance of this fort.

Inside the North Bastion of Arnala Fort.

After entering the main door gate  strolled along the ruins of the fort which was just barren ground with  parts of the ground being used for drying fish by the locals.Inside the Fort ruins are  the temples of Ambakeshwar,Godess Bhavani, Lord Shiva and the tombs of  Shahali and Hajiali. The Paduka (Sacred Sandals)  of  Shrinityanand Maharaj are housed in the dome of the Eastern face of the Fort. Spotted the large "Panchlingeshwar Temple "  and walked  along a narrow path towards the  temple which has a large Octagonal water tank that contained fresh water. This water tank never dries even in the harshest drought conditions as experienced  in this month of May in 2016.From the temple  walked to the Mausoleum of Shahali and Hajiali  a short distance away which had a well that had dried.

Fisher-folk entering the main North Gate 

                                                                                          There was a second entrance gate  to the South - west side of the  Fort  just adjacent to the Mausoleum and on exiting the fort from this entrance  came across the sea view of the island amidst dense undergrowth of trees.Re-entered the Fort from this gate that was similar in design to the main entrance North gate but without ant symbolic carvings or engravings. The  Bhavani  temple is just a little ahead of the  Muslim mausoleum and saw local villagers washing clothes near a well that was almost dry.Walked back again to the large beautiful Octagonal perrineal well and  saw a villager entering the fort through a small doorway on the South side of the Fort just behind  the temple. Walked  out of this small doorway and came across the local village settlements with a vast open grazing area that was definitely cultivated during the monsoon season. Re-entered the Fort and decided to walk up the stairs onto the Ramparts  situated in the Northern Bastion.Walked up the stairs and along  the narrow Rampart  walls which are approximately 3 meters wide allowing a entire detour of the fort akin to walking along a 200 meters race track.

View of Island village outside Southern gate of the Fort.

                                                                                                                                               The view of the sea and the village from the Rampart was worth the visit to the fort although totally in ruins and neglect.Shrimps for drying in the Sun  were strewn across the Rampart pathway near the northern end entrance. With my binoculars studied the beautiful surroundings and spotted the lone watch tower in the distant south of this Fort island. I was rationing my water consumption hoping not to finish the entire water bottle before finding the next source of liquids to quench my thirst in the blistering sun and humidity.It was peak May summer heat and i realized the reason for the lack of a picnic crowd on the island although it was school  and college vacation time.

"Watch Tower" with the iconic Creeper

                                                                                                                                               The heat was extremely torturous and chances of a sunstroke due to dehydration was not just a hypothesis but could become a fact if careless. Observed bags kept in some cavities of the Ramparts which could be storage go-downs for the villagers.Finally at 1035 hrs  walked down the Rampart and out of the Fort through  the Southern gate exit near the village settlement.Inquired for directions to the Watch tower situated  approximately 550 meters  from the Fort at the southern end of the island.It was a long walk through a narrow village path and then across the island beach  which was dirty with human excreta. Arnala Fort beach  was definitely not for a sea dip and definitely one of the dirtiest beaches.

On the Boat back to mainland from Arnala Fort Island.

                                                                                                                                       Finally reached the lone watch-tower that stood aloof at the Southernmost tip of the island . There was a tiny opening  midway on the tower which had a huge creeper tree growing  next to it. Locals and tourists could use the tree to get a internal view of the Watch Tower  while i the lone tourist on that day was just satisfied at being on the location of a piece of Indian history. From this island watch tower  a person could get a complete view of Arnala mainland coast  and the Vaitrana river on the opposite side as also the Arabian sea .Strategic location.The heat was killing me and decided to head back to the ferry boat location situated  at the North  end of the watch tower on the beach. It was a long walk in blistering Sun and humid weather walking past "Bombay Duck Drying posts"  and realized the reason for the short drying time of 2 to 3 days for manufacturing "Dry Bombay Ducks" !  Finally reached my destination and at 1130 hrs boarded the return ferry back to Arnala fishing village.The return journey was comfortable as there were few passengers on the boat. In hindsight  it was  the journey to Arnala Fort that  proved more  interesting  and adventurous  than the sad decrepit ruins of the fort.A train, bus and launch journey to  reach Arnala Island and then  trekking  in the hot May Sun was the ultimate Nirvana to any Adrenalin junkie !Finally at 1120 hrs reached Arnala fishing village  and waded in the knee deep water to the wet beach.As i walked bare-feet further from the wet sand onto the dry hot road my feet felt like it was placed on burning coals .Such was the Sun's heat radiation on the exposed pathways of Arnala village .No wonder it is the largest dry-fish Industry in the State of Maharashtra in India. I literally ran for cover into the nearest thatched house portico to avoid my feet getting burnt.After a brief rest put on my shoes and began my walk in the blazing Sun  towards Arnala beach..

Relishing a "Gola(Iced local ice-cream)"" in the blistering afternoon Sun at Arnala Beach.The Heat was killing.

It was a lonely walk on the desolate narrow road from Arnala fishing village to Arnala  beach.The fish market which was crowded  was totally empty and closed.At 1200 hrs i was on Arnala beach which has a beautiful Coconut plantation groove garden  offering shade from the blistering Sun.

Arnala Beach Coconut garden. for tourists and picnickers.

There were a few tourists but otherwise the beach garden was devoid of Summer vacation holiday revelers. In Arnala there are a few  beach resort hotels that offer swimming pool facilities and cottages on rentals which definitely suit the romancing couples or family get-together's.Spotted very prominent advertisements by "Alexson Resort Hotel" stating that for just Rs 300 package booking for the day they were providing breakfast,lunch and music along with a swimming pool ! Excellent and no wonder the beach was almost empty.There was a lone "Bhelpuriwalla" and a "Golawalla"  in the Coconut groove garden and a two large permanent   Dhabba's serving food and snacks. Observed a small isolated crowd of young children and youth having a skin dip on the main sea beach.I parked myself below a coconut tree and instantly began the business of  sipping my canned beer along with sausage/bread. Finished my lunch by 1245 hrs and undressed for a sea dip.

Arnala beach.Good for a sea dip but not swimming.

                                            The tide was now beginning to change and it was the most dangerous time for a deep sea swim.The life-guards had vacated their sentry posts and swimming officially forbidden. Arnala beach has had numerous drowning cases over the years.Kept my shoes  at the edge of the beach garden requesting the local "Golawalla" to watch over it while i took my back-pack along with me towards the beach.As soon as i stepped bare-feet onto the beach away from the Coconut groove shade was immediately grimacing in pain as my bare-feet literally got baked in the scorching beach sand.Just dropped my trousers and bag  above the water-line mark and rushed into the water.

Camel Races :- "Selfie" with Camels of Arnala Beach.

                                                                                                                        Arnala beach has black mud and the waves were powerful.It was a relief just dipping myself into the shallow shore depth of the sea and floating underwater  along with the oncoming waves akin to surfing on a surf-board. There was a small crowd of picnickers  just getting wet in the sea and nothing else.Surprised at the lack of a picnic crowd and then realized that  today was also  "FRIDAY -13 th".A combination of  factual history along with superstition associated with the number 13  along with  mega money-spinner fiction  movies  have  made this day universally synonymous with bad luck or ill fortune in the Western Christian World.

THIRST QUENCHERS :-"Gola's" and Lime juice .

                                                                         Its akin to India's obsession  with "Terrorist Dawood Ibrahim"  sightings  and  hysteria after the death of the last mysterious terrorist Osama bin Laden. Osama Bin Laden in 2016 is no longer a myth but a part of the bloody 21st century history .But, isn't the number 13 lucky for some ! Its all in the mind.After a brief bout of shallow  sea  surfing returned back to the garden and relaxed under the beautiful coconut groove .After ages quenched my thirst with a "Gola(Iced ice cream)" and later topped it with a lime juice.I was just guzzling liquids akin to a race-horse after completion of a race irrespective of winning or losing.Spotted two "Ghost Tree's" among the Coconut grooves, something i learnt to identify during my nature tours with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)".

Arnala is synonymous with the "Bombay Duck"

                                                                                                                                          Later went to the beach and took a few photographs of the camels and their handlers. Camel  rides are popular on this beach although  these beasts are unsuitable for Mumbai's Monsoon climates as they are Desert animals.Heavy rains literally kills this "Ship of the Desert".Finally at approximately 1415 hrs left Arnala beach  deciding to head back to home ,sweet and cool home. The May Sun had literally left me dehydrated and thanks to my physical fitness regime and litres of water,a can of beer, sugarcane and  lime juices that i was standing and walking on my two legs. On reaching the fish market decided to purchase dried "Bombay Ducks"  but all shops were closed .Spotted a few fisher-women near the bus-stand and approached them for purchasing "Bombay Ducks".

Purchasing "Dried Bombay Duck" fish at a  village house.

                One of the fisher-woman told a young girl to take me to their village house for purchasing the "Bombay Ducks". It was a short walk from the bus-stand through a narrow lane into the fishing village  which had small bungalow type houses.We arrived at a large single storey  village Bungalow house  which had dry Bombay ducks on its front porch..This was the house of the young fisher-woman , the authentic Koli village houses. The grandmother of the young fisher-woman showed me a basket of "Bombay Ducks" and i  purchased Rs 200 worth dry "Bombay Ducks",the signature fish of Mumbai and Arnala village.The fisher-woman began cutting and cleaning the purchased  dried fish while their beautiful tabby house cat prowled around inquisitively, afraid  and avoiding me  in my tourist attire.

"Virar-Churchgate" semi Fast train to Dadar.

 Packed the fishy smelling "Bombay Ducks" into  my polythene bag and made my way back to the bus-stop.At approximately 1520 hrs boarded the public bus to Virar  station,.It was a comfortable journey back to Virar station on the large local bus with the ticket costing Rs 10.At approximately 1550 hrs reached Virar bus depot and from there it was a short walk to the train station.Friday the 13th was a lucky day for me and a semi-fast  "Virar-Churchgate" train was waiting for me on the f platform No 1 ! Just walked into the empty  train compartment and made myself comfortable at a window seat..The train left Virar station at 1605 hrs  and spent the journey completing my reading of the "Hornbill(Jan-March 2016 edition )" magazine ..On reaching Dadar station at 1710 hrs alighted the train and made my way out of the station and quenched  my parched throat with a "Mango Sherbet" sold outside the station. After ages i had experimented with common road-side unhygienic liquids  which was not uncommon during my youth.Age and status changes a person would have been the satirical quote of late humourist/Actor  Mr Jaspal.Bhatti ! Was finally back to home sweet home after one of the most grueling solo treks made torturous due to the extreme heat conditions.