Distances from starting terminus's :- "VIRAR" is 60 Kms from Churchgate
I have been a "SOBO(South Bombay) SNOB" since childhood having spent my initial growing up schooling years in Byculla of South Mumbai and now residing in Prabhadevi locality of Central Mumbai.Even the worst "Sobo Critic" has to admit that the best night-clubs, hotels, entertainment ,theater,colleges, educational institutions ,hospitals and shopping is mostly concentrated within "SOBO".Until "Economic Liberalization 1992 and Mill land redevelopment" Bandra was considered a suburb by "Sobo Snobs" and Borivali a distant picnic location being famous for its National wild-life park. In 2016 its Borivali that is a distant suburb and "SOBO snob" includes Bandra residents ! Wealth does not describe the "Sobo Snob" but simple living location in Mumbai city be it a tiny room in Nagpada or a palatial multi-crore apartment on Altamont road,Malabar hill or Cuffe Parade
Dadar Station.Always crowded with train commuters.
.Location and only location and not wealth describes the "SOBO Snob". In Byculla our building was just opposite the Byculla railway station (East) and literally grew up seeing and hearing the local Bombay(Mumbai) trains and commuters but never ever travelling much by trains within Mumbai. Bus and later over the decades a cycle and a motorcycle was my common mode of commuter transport within Mumbai city.Having visited 52 Country's to date and almost entire India it was embarrassing to having not visited Virar nor travelled the longest distance in a local Mumbai train.Have travelled up and down the tube trains of Europe and Asia but never the longest train distance to "VIRAR" in my own home city ! "Virar" shot to prominence as the former residence of Hindi movie star Govinda(Govind.Arun.Ahuja) famous for the popular hilarious phrase,quote, "This happens only in India".Actor Govinda later also became a actor politician and a Member of Parliament from that constituency. The first Bombay suburban train and the first railway system in India was between Victoria Terminus(Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) and Thane railway terminus on Saturday 16th April 1853 with "BYCULLA STATION" being one of the train stops on the inaugural 34 Km journey to Thane. Virar is the last terminus for Western railway trains of Mumbai and decided to travel by train to Virar and in the process explore the Arnala beach and Arnala Fort situated about 10 Kms from Virar station.I had previously visited the Bassein Fort in November 2010 with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History)" group and the same documented in the first part of this blog. The Arnala Fort is historically linked to the Bassein Fort and situated only 19 Kms from the Bassein Fort along the sea coast at the mouth of the Vaitrana river.. Decided to travel by train from Dadar to Virar a rail distance of approximately 49 kms and later by road to Arnala beach .
"Fishing Industry" on Arnala beach in Arnala Village of Virar.
Friday(13-5-2016) Departure Prabhadevi and exploring Virar and Arnala Fort. :- It was "FRIDAY the 13th", a day synonymous with western superstitious belief as a unlucky day for various reasons of which many are myths including some films of the modern era.
On the semi-fast train train to Virar
The most important historical fact concerns the "Knights Templar" organisation's total annihilation by King Phillip IV of France on orders of Pope Clement V on Friday 13th October 1307.Hence this day is considered unlucky in the Western Christian World. As for me it was the day to start my long train journey to Virar for the first time in my 48 years of living in Bombay(Mumbai) city.Woke up as usual and after breakfast left my residence in Prabhadevi at 0615 hrs. Boarded the bus to Dadar and on alighting near Plaza Theatre walked the short distance to the train ticket booth of the Western Railway. It was a long queue and the first time in my life purchased a Rs 30 "Virar return ticket(Second Class)" and at 0645 hrs boarded a almost empty "Churchgate-Virar Semi-fast " train and got comfortable sitting accommodation in the Second class compartment.
On the Private "VVMT bus" from Virar to Arnala beach.
This was a "SEMI- Chrchgate/Virar FAST" local stopping at Dadar, Bandra,Andheri , Borivali and later at all stations upto the final terminus Virar. I always carry a novel or some reading material on all tours and for this short train journey began reading the "Hornbill Magazine" on natural history published by the "Bombay Natural History Society" of which i am a life member having done a few wild-life and historical fort tours with the group.The train gradually got filled with commuters and at Andheri station two young men entered the compartment and sat next to me. Developed a conversation with Mr Ronak.Vasant.Barot and Tanmay.Rajendra.Vartak,young employees in their early twenties employed in a Pharmaceutical company on the odd night shift and returning back home in the morning hours. Brought back memories of my "Marine Engineering Apprenticeship" years(1978-1982) and the odd factory night shifts of that era. Bombay has transformed in "Light Years" in population as well as city infrastructure since the 1980's.
Arnala Village fish market.
Closed the generation gap by getting to understand 21st century Mumbai life and travel by local trains from these two young gentleman while i gave them a brief summary of my life and opinions.Got to understand the meaning of "Smart-Phone " connectivity when young Mr Ronak. Barot immediately traced me on his mobile phone and added a "F.B(Facebook)" friend request on the spot ! I would have to reach home in the evening and accept the "Friends request" akin to my youth generation's "Snail mail" era which straight away explains the 21st generation and the Internet/Telecommunication revolution in the world and India.Thanks to the "SMARTPHONE" that commuters in jam packed trains or buses could keep in touch with the World as well as while away the long commuting hours by watching a movie or any programme of interest while travelling.Finally reached Virar Station at 0750 hrs, the entire journey from Dadar to Virar lasting one hour five minutes After alighting at Virar Station inquired about the location of the public bus service terminus to Arnala beach which was a short walk from the West side of the station terminus.On arrival near the bus stop which was a short ten minutes walk from the station was lucky to get a local yellow green coloured mini bus (VVMT bus) to Arnala beach operated by the "Vasai Virar Municipal transport",. The bus ticket was Rs 13 and it was a pleasant 9 Kms road journey to Arnala beach on this comfortable small bus akin to a private coach.
Arnala Fisherman's Co-operative Society.
Noticed the skyscraper buildings in the vicinity of Virar city, once a distant village of Mumbai.Later our bus crossed Virar city municipal limits and was surprised at the abrupt change in topography. From a concrete jungle we were transported into a serene village setting comprising of small bungalow/cottage houses in the midst of banana and coconut plantations. At 0815 hrs reached Arnala village and passed along the local fish market.The next stop from the fish market after passing along St Peters church was the end terminus of the bus .Alighted at the bus terminus and asked directions for Arnala fort boat ferry terminus.I had to walk back in reverse direction from the bus depot which was situated near Arnala beach.Arnala Fishing village beach is in the opposite direction of Arnala Beach that is the popular recreation tourist beach. Walked past St Peters Church, a large church that was once a small chapel hut in 1919.When the Portuguese arrived In Bassein they began a immediate conversion into Catholicism of the local population.These Converted Mahrashtrian Catholics are referred to as "East Indians" as their mother tongue is Marathi unlike Goan and Mangalorean Catholics whose mother-tongue is Konkani. This Church was built to its present architectural design by Fr Ismail Da Costa and blessed by Archbishop Joaquim.Lima on 27th December 1931.
"Bombay Ducks" being dried in Arnala fishing village.
The Church was closed and hence just entered the church compound which had a small cemetery .Arnala Village has a large East Indian Catholic population and their communal village dwellings are called "Gaothans". A few meters further from the Church was Arnala village fish market which was crowded with customers and fish-sellers. Entered the market as usual and was amazed at the sight of large quantities of the expensive Pomfret fish being displayed by various fisher-women.Kept in touch with fish prices as i regularly do the fish marketing in Worli fish market in Central Mumbai.It was a long walk in in the hot sun from the fish market through a narrow lane among village houses towards Arnala fishing beach.On the way came across a large building that belonged to the "Arnala Fishermen's Co-operative Society" which had a crowd of fisher-folk on its premises.At 0840 hrs reached the entrance to the beach and was mesmerized by the sight that greeted me,
Transporting ice blocks to deep sea fishing vessels.
The entire beach area was lined with dried Bombay duck fish stacked on bamboo poles attached to wooden bamboo stakes akin to clothes being dried in the open air.I have visited numerous fishing villages in India and foreign country's but never before did i ever see a open air dry fish industry. It was low tide and the entire beach area was active with fisher-folk, boats and transport of fish from the beach to various inland destinations on land.Observed large quantities of ice blocks being transported from the beach to small boats.On inquiry was told that since Arnala fishing port had no permanent jetty and this ice was being transported by the small boats that beached themselves on the shore to the larger fishing vessels anchored in deeper waters . Removed my shoes and walked bare feet in my short pants towards the wet tidal beach awaiting the small ferry boat for being transported to Arnala Fort island.
locals boarding the ferry boat to Arnala Fort Island.
The small ferry boat arrived packed with local passengers beaching itself on the sand bar. It was adventurous to a city bloke to witness rudimentary shipping technology being applied in ferry transport between Arnala fishing village and Arnala Fort. After all the passengers had alighted i waded into the knee deep water and boarded the tiny boat that resembled a Ocean ship's life-boat in size and capacity.After the boat got filled with passengers the boat-man cranked the diesel engine manually and started the boat.The ticket charges was Rs 15 for a return ticket and it was a short 10 minutes journey to the other side to Arnala Fort island.
Arnala Fort Island :- Dry fish Industry on the beach.
At 0910 hrs our boat beached itself on Arnala Fort island and after wading in the knee deep water reached the wet shore that was also busy with fishing activity akin to mainland Arnala fishing village.Walked towards the Fort village and inquired about directions to the Fort.It was extremely hot and humid and i began my unbelievable consumption of liquids during the entire day trek with the inauguration being my own back-pack water bottle.The entire Arnal Fort sea beach near the Ferry boat stop was lined with dried Bombay ducks upto the high tide water mark akin to Arnala fishing village on the mainland.On reaching the village settlement put on my shoes and began my walkathon trek. It was a meandering walk towards the Northern end of the small island through a small narrow lane among village houses with many of the houses having fishing nets and dried Bombay ducks fish in their backyard.
Main Northern gate Entrance to "ARNALA FORT". Tiger/Elephant Carvings.
At 0930 hrs reached Arnala Fort main gate situated at the extreme North end of the Island.From the exterior the Fort presented a majestic sight with its ramparts intact along with a massive bastion.. I was surprised at being the only tourist on the island at this time of the day, a definite curiosity for the local villagers.Near the entrance gate of the fort on the right hand corner was a plaque in Marathi language honouring a few local politicians and mentioning the inauguration of the fort maintenance by the giant Corporate "O.N.G.C(Oil & Natural Gas Corporation )" on 18th March 2001.
View of North End entrance from Inside the Fort:- Ruins.
Entered the Fort and was surprised to just see ruins and a empty desolate ground akin to a stadium backyard.Here is a brief history of this isolated Fort island now a monumental ruin.The Arnala fort is historically linked to the Bassein Fort in Vasai and was initially constructed in 1516 by a local Gujarat Sultan Mahmud.Begda. In 1530's the Portuguese had arrived and established themselves in Bassein also later taking control of Arnala island.The Arnala island was gifted to a Portuguese Nobleman by the Portuguese Captain of Bassein and the old Fort was demolished with intention of building a new 700 x 700 Foot(210m x 210 m).
Ramparts of Arnala Fort used for drying fish by locals.
The Fort was never built by the Nobleman but named llhas Das Vocas by the Portuguese who ruled over the island for two centuries controlling shipping and Navigation along the Northern Konkan coast.In 1737 Maratha Peshwa Baji Rao I sent his brother Chimaji Appa to conquer Bassein Fort from the Portuguese.After victory in the "Battle of Vasai" General Shankarji Pant persuaded Chimnaji Appa to capture Fort Arnala for its strategic importance. The Maratha forces and the Navy under Manaji Angre attacked Arnala Fort but were defeated by the superior Portuguese Navy. A second assault by the Maratha's on March 28th 1737 resulted in defeat of the Portuguese and their abandonment of the fort.
Perrineal Octagonal well next to temple.
A memory plaque commemorating this historic event is in-scripted on the main Northern wall entrance gate that also has the emblem of a tiger and a elephant. The Fort was re-designed and built to the present form by the Maratha's having three bastions named Bhairav, Bhavani and Bava. The Maratha's controlled the Fort until 1817 when they were forced to hand over the Fort to the British.The Arnala and Bassein Forts were later returned to the Maratha's but was again re-taken by the British in the treaty of Pune. In 2016 its just the history books and a few inscriptions along with the Ramparts and Bastions that recalls the importance of this fort.
Inside the North Bastion of Arnala Fort.
After entering the main door gate strolled along the ruins of the fort which was just barren ground with parts of the ground being used for drying fish by the locals.Inside the Fort ruins are the temples of Ambakeshwar,Godess Bhavani, Lord Shiva and the tombs of Shahali and Hajiali. The Paduka (Sacred Sandals) of Shrinityanand Maharaj are housed in the dome of the Eastern face of the Fort. Spotted the large "Panchlingeshwar Temple " and walked along a narrow path towards the temple which has a large Octagonal water tank that contained fresh water. This water tank never dries even in the harshest drought conditions as experienced in this month of May in 2016.From the temple walked to the Mausoleum of Shahali and Hajiali a short distance away which had a well that had dried.
Fisher-folk entering the main North Gate
There was a second entrance gate to the South - west side of the Fort just adjacent to the Mausoleum and on exiting the fort from this entrance came across the sea view of the island amidst dense undergrowth of trees.Re-entered the Fort from this gate that was similar in design to the main entrance North gate but without ant symbolic carvings or engravings. The Bhavani temple is just a little ahead of the Muslim mausoleum and saw local villagers washing clothes near a well that was almost dry.Walked back again to the large beautiful Octagonal perrineal well and saw a villager entering the fort through a small doorway on the South side of the Fort just behind the temple. Walked out of this small doorway and came across the local village settlements with a vast open grazing area that was definitely cultivated during the monsoon season. Re-entered the Fort and decided to walk up the stairs onto the Ramparts situated in the Northern Bastion.Walked up the stairs and along the narrow Rampart walls which are approximately 3 meters wide allowing a entire detour of the fort akin to walking along a 200 meters race track.
View of Island village outside Southern gate of the Fort.
The view of the sea and the village from the Rampart was worth the visit to the fort although totally in ruins and neglect.Shrimps for drying in the Sun were strewn across the Rampart pathway near the northern end entrance. With my binoculars studied the beautiful surroundings and spotted the lone watch tower in the distant south of this Fort island. I was rationing my water consumption hoping not to finish the entire water bottle before finding the next source of liquids to quench my thirst in the blistering sun and humidity.It was peak May summer heat and i realized the reason for the lack of a picnic crowd on the island although it was school and college vacation time.
"Watch Tower" with the iconic Creeper
The heat was extremely torturous and chances of a sunstroke due to dehydration was not just a hypothesis but could become a fact if careless. Observed bags kept in some cavities of the Ramparts which could be storage go-downs for the villagers.Finally at 1035 hrs walked down the Rampart and out of the Fort through the Southern gate exit near the village settlement.Inquired for directions to the Watch tower situated approximately 550 meters from the Fort at the southern end of the island.It was a long walk through a narrow village path and then across the island beach which was dirty with human excreta. Arnala Fort beach was definitely not for a sea dip and definitely one of the dirtiest beaches.
On the Boat back to mainland from Arnala Fort Island.
Finally reached the lone watch-tower that stood aloof at the Southernmost tip of the island . There was a tiny opening midway on the tower which had a huge creeper tree growing next to it. Locals and tourists could use the tree to get a internal view of the Watch Tower while i the lone tourist on that day was just satisfied at being on the location of a piece of Indian history. From this island watch tower a person could get a complete view of Arnala mainland coast and the Vaitrana river on the opposite side as also the Arabian sea .Strategic location.The heat was killing me and decided to head back to the ferry boat location situated at the North end of the watch tower on the beach. It was a long walk in blistering Sun and humid weather walking past "Bombay Duck Drying posts" and realized the reason for the short drying time of 2 to 3 days for manufacturing "Dry Bombay Ducks" ! Finally reached my destination and at 1130 hrs boarded the return ferry back to Arnala fishing village.The return journey was comfortable as there were few passengers on the boat. In hindsight it was the journey to Arnala Fort that proved more interesting and adventurous than the sad decrepit ruins of the fort.A train, bus and launch journey to reach Arnala Island and then trekking in the hot May Sun was the ultimate Nirvana to any Adrenalin junkie !Finally at 1120 hrs reached Arnala fishing village and waded in the knee deep water to the wet beach.As i walked bare-feet further from the wet sand onto the dry hot road my feet felt like it was placed on burning coals .Such was the Sun's heat radiation on the exposed pathways of Arnala village .No wonder it is the largest dry-fish Industry in the State of Maharashtra in India. I literally ran for cover into the nearest thatched house portico to avoid my feet getting burnt.After a brief rest put on my shoes and began my walk in the blazing Sun towards Arnala beach..
Relishing a "Gola(Iced local ice-cream)"" in the blistering afternoon Sun at Arnala Beach.The Heat was killing.
It was a lonely walk on the desolate narrow road from Arnala fishing village to Arnala beach.The fish market which was crowded was totally empty and closed.At 1200 hrs i was on Arnala beach which has a beautiful Coconut plantation groove garden offering shade from the blistering Sun.
Arnala Beach Coconut garden. for tourists and picnickers.
There were a few tourists but otherwise the beach garden was devoid of Summer vacation holiday revelers. In Arnala there are a few beach resort hotels that offer swimming pool facilities and cottages on rentals which definitely suit the romancing couples or family get-together's.Spotted very prominent advertisements by "Alexson Resort Hotel" stating that for just Rs 300 package booking for the day they were providing breakfast,lunch and music along with a swimming pool ! Excellent and no wonder the beach was almost empty.There was a lone "Bhelpuriwalla" and a "Golawalla" in the Coconut groove garden and a two large permanent Dhabba's serving food and snacks. Observed a small isolated crowd of young children and youth having a skin dip on the main sea beach.I parked myself below a coconut tree and instantly began the business of sipping my canned beer along with sausage/bread. Finished my lunch by 1245 hrs and undressed for a sea dip.
Arnala beach.Good for a sea dip but not swimming.
The tide was now beginning to change and it was the most dangerous time for a deep sea swim.The life-guards had vacated their sentry posts and swimming officially forbidden. Arnala beach has had numerous drowning cases over the years.Kept my shoes at the edge of the beach garden requesting the local "Golawalla" to watch over it while i took my back-pack along with me towards the beach.As soon as i stepped bare-feet onto the beach away from the Coconut groove shade was immediately grimacing in pain as my bare-feet literally got baked in the scorching beach sand.Just dropped my trousers and bag above the water-line mark and rushed into the water.
Camel Races :- "Selfie" with Camels of Arnala Beach.
Arnala beach has black mud and the waves were powerful.It was a relief just dipping myself into the shallow shore depth of the sea and floating underwater along with the oncoming waves akin to surfing on a surf-board. There was a small crowd of picnickers just getting wet in the sea and nothing else.Surprised at the lack of a picnic crowd and then realized that today was also "FRIDAY -13 th".A combination offactualhistory along with superstition associated with the number 13 along with mega money-spinner fiction movies have made this day universally synonymous with bad luck or ill fortune in the Western Christian World.
THIRST QUENCHERS :-"Gola's" and Lime juice .
Its akin to India's obsession with "Terrorist Dawood Ibrahim" sightings and hysteria after the death of the last mysterious terrorist Osama bin Laden. Osama Bin Laden in 2016 is no longer a myth but a part of the bloody 21st century history .But, isn't the number 13 lucky for some ! Its all in the mind.After a brief bout of shallow sea surfing returned back to the garden and relaxed under the beautiful coconut groove .After ages quenched my thirst with a "Gola(Iced ice cream)" and later topped it with a lime juice.I was just guzzling liquids akin to a race-horse after completion of a race irrespective of winning or losing.Spotted two "Ghost Tree's" among the Coconut grooves, something i learnt to identify during my nature tours with "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History Society)".
Arnala is synonymous with the "Bombay Duck"
Later went to the beach and took a few photographs of the camels and their handlers. Camel rides are popular on this beach although these beasts are unsuitable for Mumbai's Monsoon climates as they are Desert animals.Heavy rains literally kills this "Ship of the Desert".Finally at approximately 1415 hrs left Arnala beach deciding to head back to home ,sweet and cool home. The May Sun had literally left me dehydrated and thanks to my physical fitness regime and litres of water,a can of beer, sugarcane and lime juices that i was standing and walking on my two legs. On reaching the fish market decided to purchase dried "Bombay Ducks" but all shops were closed .Spotted a few fisher-women near the bus-stand and approached them for purchasing "Bombay Ducks".
Purchasing "Dried Bombay Duck" fish at a village house.
One of the fisher-woman told a young girl to take me to their village house for purchasing the "Bombay Ducks". It was a short walk from the bus-stand through a narrow lane into the fishing village which had small bungalow type houses.We arrived at a large single storey village Bungalow house which had dry Bombay ducks on its front porch..This was the house of the young fisher-woman , the authentic Koli village houses. The grandmother of the young fisher-woman showed me a basket of "Bombay Ducks" and i purchased Rs 200 worth dry "Bombay Ducks",the signature fish of Mumbai and Arnala village.The fisher-woman began cutting and cleaning the purchased dried fish while their beautiful tabby house cat prowled around inquisitively, afraid and avoiding me in my tourist attire.
"Virar-Churchgate" semi Fast train to Dadar.
Packed the fishy smelling "Bombay Ducks" into my polythene bag and made my way back to the bus-stop.At approximately 1520 hrs boarded the public bus to Virar station,.It was a comfortable journey back to Virar station on the large local bus with the ticket costing Rs 10.At approximately 1550 hrs reached Virar bus depot and from there it was a short walk to the train station.Friday the 13th was a lucky day for me and a semi-fast "Virar-Churchgate" train was waiting for me on the f platform No 1 ! Just walked into the empty train compartment and made myself comfortable at a window seat..The train left Virar station at 1605 hrs and spent the journey completing my reading of the "Hornbill(Jan-March 2016 edition )" magazine ..On reaching Dadar station at 1710 hrs alighted the train and made my way out of the station and quenched my parched throat with a "Mango Sherbet" sold outside the station. After ages i had experimented with common road-side unhygienic liquids which was not uncommon during my youth.Age and status changes a person would have been the satirical quote of late humourist/Actor Mr Jaspal.Bhatti ! Was finally back to home sweet home after one of the most grueling solo treks made torturous due to the extreme heat conditions.
Being a student and blogger on historical forts in Mumbai,most notably the "Worli Fort", close to my residence at Prabhadevi,a visit to the "Bassein Fort(Vasai)" had long eluded my tour itinerary.Traveling alone to Bassein made less sense without a tour guide since this fort had no "Tourist guide literature" akin to the most prominent historical sites that i visited in India and on foreign travels.Finally managed to find time for myself and booked a day trip for visiting Bassein Fort with the "B.N.H.S(Bombay Natural History society)" on Sunday(21-11-2010). The total cost of the tour was Rs 550 for members and Rs 650 for non-members.
Woke up at 0500 hrs on Sunday(21-11-2010) and bizarrely it was raining outside with bolts of lightning , something totally unseasonal in Mumbai. After a quick breakfast left my residence in Prabhadevi to board the local bus to Dadar T.T,near "Chandu Halwai shop", the usual rendezvous for boarding the "B.N.H.S Tour Bus".The "Bassein Fort" is 77 Kms away from Mumbai by road on the "Mumbai-Ahmedabad" highway.The bus was exactly on time, arriving at 0630 hrs with tour guide Mr Vandan.Jhaveri, a member with his son and another lady member along with her son.Boarded the bus and made our way to Chembur where we picked up the next crowd which included the two ladies Elizabeth.Devasia and Bakul.Gadia with whom i previously trekked to Rajmachi fort.The bus with 11 members took the "Eastern Express Highway" route and i myself was stunned at the modernisation of Mumbai suburbs in the last decade since i usually confined my travel to South and central Mumbai for my entertainment, leisure and work.We reached Thane at approx 0730 hrs and the beauty of Ghodbunder road of Thane set amidst the "Sanjay Gandhi National park" vicinity was a pleasure to the eyes, tragically, some leopards have been killed while crossing the "Ghodbunder Thane Highway" at night.It was amazing to see sign boards on Ghodbunder Highway warning motorists to drive carefully as the area was the domicile of leopards,unbelievable in one of the World's most congested city's.Reached the "Ghodbunder Thane Toll Plaza" at 0800 hrs and later crossed the bridge with a short stop-over at a petrol station near Hotel Annapurna, refreshing ourselves with snacks.Began our road journey reaching Vasai Phatak(East) highway 8 at approx 0840 hrs, one of the worst roads in Mumbai,the bus having to navigate through road craters,a recipe for accidents, especially for 2-wheelers.Life can be dangerous and unpredictable was proved with the bizarre accident of a "B.N.H.S Bus" the previous Sunday on 14-11-2010, A "S.T bus" collided with the "B.N.H.S bus" resulting in serious injuries to the driver and B.N.H.S General manager Mr Issac.Kehimkar who were returning after conducting a tour on "Butterflies" at Ovalekar wadi(Thane). Mr Kehimkar himself is a best-seller author on the subject of "Butterflies" and thankfully, both are recovering from their severe injuries .After this incident,it seems "B.N.H.S" has started a trend of taking a signed agreement from every touring member against unforetold injuries or accidents while on tours. We picked up a few more members at Vasai station including senior citizen B.N.H.S co-tour guide Mr V.K.Paralkar.The hobby of a naturalist or traveler has no retirement age akin to other professions, it just requires physical fitness and a passion for travel and exploration ,besides the luxury of excess money and time since most tours are expensive and time consuming, beyond the reach of the average naturalist. Bassein(Vasai) has a predominantly Catholic population known as "East Indians" having vast ancestral properties with picturesque cottages , a result of the "Bassein Fort" and mass conversion of the local population by the Portugueese rulers during the 16th and 17th centuries.Drove past the beautiful "Our Lady of Grace" Cathedral, a modern edifice of 21st century Catholicism in the region.
Wilderness and greenery in Bassein Fort. among the Walls of the ruins.
We finally reached the precincts of the ruins of Bassein Fort at approx 0920hrs and were joined by two separate family's who made the journey through their own private cars.We were finally approx a total of 21 members and began our walking tour of the "Bassein Fort" precincts guided by B.N.H.S Staff guides Mr V.K.Paralkar and Mr Vandhan.Jhaveri.I had visited "Bassein Fort" as a school boy in the 1970's with my mother and paternal uncle and had faint memories of the picnic outing, a sumptuous lunch in a bungalow on a huge dining table normally seen in films at the local East Indian residence of Uncle Winniebald.Furtado's co-worker in "Voltas Ltd".The Mumbai of the 1970's and 2010 has changed beyond recognition, least of all the distant former fishing and cultivation village of Vasai, a sleepy fishing and crop cultivation village in 1970's.The Fort seemed straight out of a "Ghost Movie set ", a totally desolate abandoned locality with crumbling walls and pillars,the forest reclaiming the fort, eerily calm and quiet in comparison to the crowded city just 5 minutes drive away.The Portuguese captured Bassein from the Sultan of Gujarat Bahadur.Shah and enlarged the Fort , ruling over this fort from 1534 to 1739.Later in 1740 the "Bassein Fort" was ransacked by the Maratha's and captured by Chimnaji.Appa , the brother of Peshwa Baji.Rao.The expanse of the desolate fort reflected its importance and power during its zenith of Portuguese rule in North India, as Bassein(Vasai) was the northernmost colony of Portugal rule in India, the southernmost being Goa.
Banyan tree roots entangled in Fort walls which has a "PORTUGUESE INSCRIPTION".
During its zenith of Portuguese power in India , the "Bassein Fort" consisted of 13 churches, 5 convents and a cathedral besides a sizable population living within the Fort precincts. Majority of "Roman Catholics" in India are ancestors of the original converts of the local native Indian population to Catholicism by the Portuguese rulers in Goa and Bassein(Vasai).As the Mumbai monsoon rains were still active there was immense forested greenery and the huge Banyan trees with some of their roots attached to the crumbling Fort walls looked grotesquely beautiful.Mr Vandhan.Jhaveri began his explanation of some of the flora and birds sighted within our vicinity while Mr V.K.Paralkar gave us a brief history of the fort. Honestly, my trekking trips with B.N.H.S Group was for experiencing the rugged outdoor trails, rather than recognizing or identifying exotic birds, butterfly's or plant species, although, thanks to "B.N.H.S" qualified staff trekkers i gradually got educated in the same.To my embarrassment and shame i realized that many of the birds that i shot in the 1970's during holidays in parents ancestral village of Mangalore were some of the exotic birds prized by professional bird watchers.I console myself from these heinous "wild-life crimes" with the fact that people once hunted tigers in areas like Bassein at the beginning of the 20th century, reflecting the change of wild-life topography and its abundance over different decades to different generations of Indians.Spotted a few Koels and heard the crow-pheasant's typical call, the only wild-life birds i am familiar with, thanks to hunting them with an air-gun in the 1970's.Most of the other members were ardent bird and butterfly watchers or either learning the art of "Bird-watching" and "Bird-Calls" excellently assisted by "B.N.H.S" guides Mr V.K.Paralkar and Mr Vandan.Jhaveri.I got busy with my "Camera shooting", a project i undertook from my sea-faring career after forever quitting air-gun shooting of birds and small mammals.Did some video- shooting of the desolate fort surroundings, my usual postings on "you Tube",a reference and guide for future travelers and hikers.
Some parts of the ruins of the fort have been renovated, most prominently being a ancient church within the fort complex.Tragically, the renovation and strengthening of the walls with cement have eroded the ancient rugged stone edifice walls of their centuries old looks giving them a 21st century "Apartment renovation facade" akin to the "worli Fort" in Mumbai.Entered this ancient former church,easily identifiable by the ancient intact "Tombstones" on the church floor.Its strange but true,akin to "Crime Detection", every Colonial power have left their unique "Footprints or signature" in the Country's they colonized and with the Portuguese it was their opulent Churches and massive grave tombstones.Having visited Melaka(Malacca) in Malaysia in 2007, a former colonial port colony ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch and the British before finally becoming a part of Independent Malaysia, and its architectural colonial buildings preserved to the present era.I felt the feeling of experiencing a part of Malacca in Bassein(Vasai) Fort, such close were the structural similarities of some ruins to Malacca.The ruins of the Bassein Fort with some walls covered with Banyan and Peepal tree roots resembled photographs of the "Angkor Vat" in Cambodia, the jungle reclaiming the deserted ruins.Strangely, there are no "Historical signboards" at the site of the Bassein(Vasai) Fort ruins explaining the significance or description of these historical structures nor are there any "Guide Maps" or "Guide Literature", totally untapped as a "tourist Destination" for foreign tourists unlike Malacca in Malaysia or Angkor Vat in Cambodia.Tracked our way through the Fort ruins with Mr Vandan .Jhaveri lecturing on some botanical species, insects and bird spotting while Mr V,K,Paralkar guided us through the maze of broken walls and canopy of forest as he was familiar to the forts precincts.Discovered the "pagoda ant Nest" in a tree, something i always saw during my air-gun hunting days in the forests of Mangalore in the 1970's but learnt about its habitat only after my hiking and trekking trips with "B.N.H.S" tour groups.Spotted numerous "Date palm trees" and thanks to Mr V.K.Paralkar learnt the differences between the different types of "Palm trees" in India as also the extraction of "Neera Juice" by the natives from these trees.Day Hikes and Expedition nature tours by the "B.N.H.S Group" are definitely costly compared to individual or private travel,as experienced by my own personal solo World-wide and local tours accomplished on a "Back-packers" miserly budget as i traveled single.The main benefit of trekking with "B.N.H.S Group" is that a person is in the exalted company of professional and amateur naturalists from different professions as co- tourists besides having experienced qualified "B.N.H.S group leaders" to conduct the tours and treks, a treasure trove of wild-life knowledge and mutual friendship.Suddenly while walking through one of the Fort ruins Mr Jhaveri spotted a "Loop caterpillar" perfectly camouflaged like a twig, invisible to the common trekker akin to a chameleon.I videotaped his explanation on this particular species, the advantages of trekking with professional qualified naturalists.We trekked through various parts of the Fort ruins, photographing and being explained various nature trails and forest species.This was supposed to be a half-day tour with a time schedule of 1200 hrs as completion of the tour.
Our brief and lengthy walk through the maze of forest and Fort ruins finally led us to the monument site of the equestrian statue of Chimnaji Appa the brother of Peshwa Baji Rao -I, the conqueror and liberator of Bassein(Vasai) Fort from the Portuguese rule in 1740.We rested in the small garden dedicated to the Peshwa Chimnaji Appa, having our breakfast of packaged food at approx 1115 hrs and also getting familiar with co- trekkers of the group.Trekking and nature trail walks with "B.N.H.S" are all a group effort and hence besides learning and understanding forests , history and wild-life, a person also makes new friends and acquaintances.
Date trees used for extracting 'Neera', a local brew
After breakfast we walked down the main village road and spotted a palm tree with numerous weaver bird nests, the same explained to us by Mr V.K.Paralkar. We inspected the area below the tree to find some fallen nests but due to the unseasonal Mumbai rains most of the nests were wet and damaged.I have a weaver bird nest at home, a collection during my trip to dad's ancestral home of Barkur village in Udupi district of Mangalore. Weaver birds were once very common in Barkur village always building their nests on the tallest male palm tree.The "Engineering technology" employed by the weaver bird in building its nest as explained by Mr V.K.Paralkar proved the fact that we humans have adapted most of our scientific progress by observing and studying nature, most notably, the aeroplane. Walked down the narrow village road finally reaching the wharf of Bassein Creek, a very deserted area with just a single shop and a few boats at the wharf.The "Bassein Fort" with its boundary walls touching the coast looked beautiful from the wharf jetty.The main entrance to the "Bassein Fort" is from this end of the sea shore and hence we made our way towards the fort entrance. The entrance door consisting of teak wood was intact as also the spiny iron projections on this door, a sort of armour. After entrance through the main door we entered another arched door entrance, the second protective door of entry into the main fort premises.At the entrance of the fort was a small "Hanuman Temple" of modern construction and also the figurine of a Hindu Goddess deity sitting on a peacock kept under a tree opposite the temple.There were just walls with thick undergrowth of grass inside the fort premises and we finally made our way towards the road leading to the "Bassein Block Office", a recent government office set up in 2009 for the architectural conservation of Bassein Fort.A modern day Hindu temple, the "Nageshwar Temple" was next to this office, opposite the majestic ruins of the Bassein fort complex.A few of us decided to get to know each other better through "Facebook social website", a product of 21st century Internet invention.We finally boarded the "B.N.H.S Bus" at approx 1300 hrs and the journey back to Mumbai was comfortable with less traffic, finally reaching Dadar at approx 1500 hrs. Alighted the "B.N.H.S" bus at Dadar and boarded a local "B.E.S.T bus", something that i rarely commute on after the purchase of my 2-wheeler motorcycle in 2004.Reached home at approx 1530 hrs and as usual got down to my computer blogging and browsing, memories for another day.
